Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
